Problems
A pink halo around a red border on an ivory field is the most common damage we see on Persian rugs from Long Island homes, and it is almost never the rug's fault. Here is what causes it and what can be done.
Dye migration: dye that was fixed in one color area dissolves, travels in water, and redeposits in a neighboring lighter area. The deep madder reds and navies of a Kashan, the tinted tea‑wash on an Oushak, the painted field of a mid‑century Sarouk, the bright synthetics on a Azilal and the pastels of a dhurrie are the usual sources.
Every rug is dye‑tested before it is wetted: a damp white cloth pressed to each color for several minutes, longer for reds and tea‑washed pieces. Rugs that show movement are washed cold with a dye stabilizer, kept in the water for a short time, rinsed cold, spun immediately and dried fast with strong air movement. That sequence is standard at the Farmingdale plant; it is what the floor service skips.
Recent bleeds respond well: a stabilizing wash holds the good dyes while a reducing treatment decolors the migrated dye in controlled steps, tested at each stage on a hidden area. Old bleeds that have set into the fiber respond partially. We test first and tell you what to expect; the dye bleed correction page explains the process.
Nothing wet. If a rug has bled, do not try to rinse it out on the driveway; you will move the dye further. Roll it, keep it dry, and book a pickup.
Drop‑offs welcome any day; call ahead and you can watch the dye test.
Recent bleeds often can be reversed most of the way; old set bleeds improve less. We test a small area and tell you before you commit.
Not if the dye test says it might: those rugs are washed cold with a stabilizer and dried fast. Bleeding at a plant that tests first is very rare.
Not if it gets to the plant within about a week. The sooner it is washed with a stabilizer, the more comes back.